Monday, June 27: Peaks of Otter to Orchard Gap
I slept late in my luxurious bed in the Peaks of Otter
Lodge, made my protein shake, and packed up. I indulged in a fresh cinnamon
roll at the lodge snack shop before taking off. I admired an unusual looking
camping trailer, and the woman beside it said her husband built it by hand and
made it suitable for off-road travel. Then she leaned in for a conspiratorial
whisper: “We like camping away from other people.”
“So do I,” I replied.
We wished each other safe travels and drove off. The
stretch of the Blue Ridge through southwestern Virginia is spectacularly
beautiful. It is a smooth two-land blacktop road with almost no intersections,
plenty of curves, and amazing mountaintop views around every corner. A few
rhododendron (or maybe they are mountain laurel) are still in bloom.
I saw several healthy looking Virginia white-tailed
deer. One large doe looked right at me, and seemed to say, “This is our
mountain. You are welcome to ride through it, but please do not disturb our
peaceful lifestyle.”
Once, when the parkway dipped into a small mountain
valley—called a hollow, or “holler” down here—I waved at a farmer on his John
Deere green tractor. He waved and seemed to say, “This is our holler. You are
welcome to ride through it, but please do not disturb our peaceful lifestyle.”
Farther down the parkway, I passed a farm with a herd
of cattle. One cow looked at me and seemed to say, “Moo.”
The timing was perfect for me to stop for lunch at a
restaurant next to the historic Mabry Mill, which E.B. Mabry operated from 1910
to 1935. Today the National Park Service maintains it, and they continue to
grind grain and preserve all the associated operations as a demonstration farm,
so future generations can appreciate what old-fashioned milling was like.
After a delicious lunch, I returned to my bike, and
chatted with a nice couple from Washington who had just pulled in on a Harley.
“Do you have a weather ap?” asked the man. He said he just got notification
from the National Weather Service that a series of fast-moving cells with
severe thunderstorms were moving through the area. He said they got rained on a
few minutes ago.
We were at mile marker 175, and my plan had been to
continue all the way to a campground at mile 240, but I didn’t want to ride in
the rain, let along get caught in a severe thunderstorm. I also didn’t want to
camp in the rain. Then I looked at my map and saw that Orchard Gap was only 20
miles away at mile 195. I remembered some terrific cabins in Orchard Gap, where
I had stayed once before. I made it to Orchard Gap with only a light rainstorm
on the way.
The cabin is wonderful! First of all it is
dry. But it also has features like air conditioning, cable TV, a stereo, a
kitchenette, and a Jacuzzi for two. Furthermore, it has a front porch with a
view of the mountains and a porch swing and rocking chair. Best of all, the
price is only $95—far less than what I paid for the motel rooms on this trip. I
landed in heaven!
In the early evening I walked down the
hill to the little store, and as I did, a cloud rolled in. I was very glad that
I wasn’t trying to navigate the parkway in such a thick fog.
I had a great meditation on the porch, a
relaxing soak in the Jacuzzi, and a good night’s sleep in the comfortable bed.
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